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AD Secrets: A tour of Al Bateen

Recently, I’ve found myself spending much of my time in a part of Abu Dhabi called Al Bateen. It is a mostly residential area on the west side of Abu ...

Oct 3, 2015

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Recently, I’ve found myself spending much of my time in a part of Abu Dhabi called Al Bateen. It is a mostly residential area on the west side of Abu Dhabi Island, stretching along its coast and neighboring the expat-heavy Khalidiyah area. People say that Al Bateen begins right after the InterContinental, since there are no bars south of there.
The neighborhood’s picturesque villas, high-rise walls and plant-dense streets were what attracted me to the area; its wealth of cultural activities kept me exploring. A 30 AED cab ride away from Saadiyat, Al Bateen is a great neighborhood to visit for long stretches of time.
An ideal spot to begin your explorations is the area around Al Bateen mall, especially since taxi drivers are familiar with the location. An old bus station turned department store, the mall is composed of a worn-down supermarket, a cafeteria and a Baskin Robbins, and has long been overshadowed by the recent, more grandiose shopping developments in the city.
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Cafeteria
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Al Bateen Cafeteria

The corner cafeteria, with its geometric tiling, bright green chairs and pleasantly shaded atmosphere, is a nice place to go for a cheap lunch. It has a wide selection of paratha, a local speciality made with Indian flatbread that my Emirati friends lament is not as well-known as the beloved shawarma.
The cafeteria also boasts fresh fruit juices and smoothies, cheap falafel sandwiches and friendly staff. It is open daily, from 7:00 a.m. to 1:00 a.m.
In front of the mall are two galleries, The Etihad Modern Art Gallery and the Etihad Antiques Gallery.
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Modern Art 2
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Etihad Modern Art Gallery

Since its establishment two years ago, this gallery has had an open-door, free admissions policy. It hosts contemporary art shows – at least five per year – alongside pieces of Islamic art and heritage.
The gallery is a great place to find out more about the local art scene, as it features UAE-based artists from around the world and also hosts a Resident Artists Program. It is open Saturday to Thursday, from 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
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Antique 2
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Etihad Antiques Gallery

This antiques gallery houses a large collection of art that spans 17th-century French statues and 19th-century Italian watercolors, as well as Quranic manuscripts and Arabic calligraphy.
It also includes local antiques and an extensive collection of old photographs. Well-groomed cats roam inside the elaborately carved villa that houses the gallery, which has existed since 2004. The gallery has only recently opened its doors to the public, however, and its hours are not as flexible as those of the modern art gallery next to it.
However, finding time to visit is well worth the effort; the main caretaker – who owns the strolling cats – was happy to give me a tour and explain the market surrounding antiques in the UAE. Those curious can confirm opening times by calling the number 02-667-1229.
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Art House Café

Located conveniently close to the galleries, this café has sofas made out of teddy bears, a love wall filled with locks, tree trunks covered with bright cloth and a stained glass rooftop that casts the space in color.
This hipster café aesthetic is worth paying the premium for, especially since Art House Café is one of the best-decorated cafés I’ve found so far. The staff were friendly and accommodating, even when I requested to split a smoothie with a friend who was accompanying me.
The café is open from Saturday to Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., and on Friday from 3:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
On the way out, visitors can pick up a copy of the Dubai-based Brownbook Magazine.
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Al Bateen Shipyard and Marina

For those interested in exploring traditional Arabic shipbuilding, this place is a must. I experienced no trouble just walking into the area, and no one inside questioned my presence. The Marina makes for great people-watching. Once can wander around while peeking at picnics on the boats floating nearby.
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Residential Area

What sets Al Bateen apart is the beauty of its residential areas. When I first visited, the neighborhoods felt completely unlike the Abu Dhabi I knew. It's easy to find a bench in a peaceful, isolated corner and stake out the area for a nice conversation with friends or a journey alone.
Quietness is the quality that many residents I talked to like the most about Al Bateen. At around 7:00 a.m., local families send their children off to one of the many schools in the area, and a sweeper strolls through the wide palm-filled streets and narrow alleyways.
The New Bateen Cemetery is reachable by foot and enclosed by gated residential communities. Nearby is the Presidential Guard, the elite security of the UAE, and The Crown Prince’s Court, a huge complex that lights up beautifully at night. Mosques and embassies are scattered around the area, providing more incentive to get lost while exploring the neighborhood for hours.
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Al Bateen Beach

Located at the southwest corner of Al Bateen, this is a private women's-only beach, and no cameras or phones are allowed. Originating from Al Bateen Beach is the Hodariyat Bridge; it is currently under construction, and only accessible by going off-road. This bridge is known as "San Francisco" to locals, who apparently like to come here on dates and kiss in the secluded darkness.
The beach is open from 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., though swimming is only allowed until sunset. Entry is 25 AED.
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